Modified Gearbox with forward, neutral and reverse
Let me first say, I'm going to enjoy this transmission. I gave it a 4 star because it's not perfect and it needed some work before, I wanted to place it into my new build. I gave it the fifth star because I love the people, I'm doing this for. They have been very helpful and super friendly. They also know I'm not complaining, I'm offering advice on an easy fix you can do at home for the cost of about $1.00, superglue and one bolt, with two lock nuts. I check everything for grease and for faults before a build of an RC and this is my first Toyan Engine and Transmission I've attempted to build around I also run in all engines and gearing I'm going to use to make certain nothing hangs up other than what I'm now working on. I ran in my engine, (FS-100), on two tanks of fuel one after the other. I let it get real hot, then after it cooled, I re-torqued all the bolts. Ready for three more tanks of fuel before mounting. I really like this engine. It's not the high speed super fast engines in most of my vehicles it's more like a high torque truck, not fast but powerful. It's going to be a Rat Rod,, I hope. The transmission on run in, I noticed the lower main bearings moving in and out as I shifted the gears, This would become a problem in the future wearing the main frame down and the bearing would start spinning inside the frame. I fixed all four bearings with a small drop of super glue placed just outside the bearing, then moved in around the outer race of the bearing between the main frame and the outer bearing. Perfect! The bearings no longer move with the shifter and the shift was smoother. Then I found a second problem as I was feeling the transmission in reverse, it clicked a little like it was mashing teeth on the case-hardened gears, but, only in reverse. I searched further and found that the idler gear for reverse is riding, not on a case-hardened axle but a threaded bolt and that bolt didn't reach far enough to be capable of reaching the outer part of the housing so a lock nut could be placed on it to stabilize it when it's placed in reverse. Quick fix, I dug out a bolt of the same size diameter that was a little longer so I could stabilize it and that seemed to fix the problem. This idler is used only for reverse and isn't a constant spinner, should last a long time. I might try an "A" arm pin which is smoother than the threaded bolt but it can shift while under moderate RPM on the fly smoothly. I'll be using a clutch also so that will make it even better. The third picture shows the lock nut on the end of the new bolt being used as the idler gear for reverse, I hadn't run it down yet. I'll get many runs out of this and it's a real easy fix if it ever does wear out. Don't know about most of you but I'm usually in a forward gear?? It's ready to go and I thank you Stirlingkit!
